Junípero Serra: A complex character with a controversial legacy

In a remote corner of Mexico called the Sierra Gorda, I marveled at an opulent mission, designed by the Franciscan priest Junípero Serra. Familiar with the California missions, I was surprised by the grandeur of these five structures. Junípero Serra, a priest from Mallorca, became a missionary in the Americas at 36, traveling extensive distances despite a leg injury.

He established missions across Querétaro, Baja California, and what's now California during the 18th century, later canonized by the Catholic Church. The Sierra Gorda missions, built near rich colonial centers and thriving trade routes, feature intricate baroque architecture, a result of skilled local artisans blending Catholic and Indigenous symbols.

In stark contrast, California missions were constructed in isolated outposts, relying on adobe bricks, timber, and stones, leading to a simpler style. Serra aimed to control interior mining and agricultural zones in Mexico and implement military strategy in California. While his architectural and leadership styles varied, Serra took steps to learn the Pame language, teach European farming methods, and defend Pames' rights in the Sierra Gorda.

However, in California, his treatment of Indigenous people was inconsistent, with condemnations of violence and mistreatment occurring alongside harsh discipline. Upon his canonization in 2015, reactions were split, with some praising his role in spreading faith, while others denounced him as the "saint of genocide." Mexicans, a mix of Spanish Catholic and Indigenous heritage, felt ambivalent about Serra, torn between their love for their faith and the painful realization of its brutal origins.