‘That’s literally Indian embroidery’: Ralph Lauren faces backlash over Zardozi-inspired design

Ralph Lauren has recently faced criticism from the internet for incorporating Indian design elements into its Spring-Summer 2027 collection without proper credit. A photograph of an evening gown with Zardosi embroidery, which is a form of Indian embroidery, sparked backlash as netizens called out the brand for not acknowledging the origin of the design.

Yash Sahu, an academic lead at the IMS Design and Innovation Academy, explained that the metallic surface, raised embellishments, and ornamental treatment of the garment are strongly associated with Indian Zardozi traditions. However, Sahu emphasized the need for technical caution, stating that a photograph cannot definitively identify the technique used, such as Zardozi, Aari, or other hand-embroidery methods.

The controversy highlights the larger issue of whether inspiration crosses a line when it becomes too specific to credit the source. Sahu argued that while Ralph Lauren can use Indian craft, it is crucial to name the craft and acknowledge its historical significance. The debate raises questions about the fashion industry's comfort with celebrating finished aesthetics while often disregarding the origins of the craft.

Ultimately, the conversation around credit, attribution, and cultural ownership becomes essential when a recognisable Indian embroidery tradition is used by a global fashion designer.