Taste of Mexico: The curious history and myths of chile en nogada

September, known as the “mes patrio” or patriotic month, marks the commemoration of Mexico’s independence from Spain, which occurred in 1821. On September 15th, the president reenacts the “grito” or cry of independence, a celebration observed by families and friends across the country. People dress up in traditional Mexican attire, such as sombreros, fake mustaches, and braids, and indulge in a feast featuring chile en nogada, a dish that has generated much intrigue and mystery.

Chile en nogada consists of a poblano pepper stuffed with a mixture of beef, fruits like apple, peach, banana, and pear, along with almonds, pine nuts, walnuts, onion, and garlic. The dish is characterized by its unique flavor profile, combining sweet and salty elements to create a delectable experience. As a historian, the author is intrigued by the origins of this dish, as it is considered the quintessential Mexican cuisine.

According to an official government page, chile en nogada was first created on August 28, 1821, when the Augustinian nuns of the Convent of Santa Mónica in Puebla welcomed Agustín de Iturbide, the first Emperor of independent Mexico, with this newly crafted dish. The dish was said to represent the colors of the national flag: green, white, and red.

However, historical records reveal a different story; Iturbide arrived in Puebla on August 5th, and there is no evidence that the dish was prepared for him. The ingredients necessary for chile en nogada were not purchased, suggesting that it may never have been served to the emperor.

The notion that the nuns created the dish for Iturbide is, in fact, a myth. Historical records indicate that the recipe for nogada, a European sauce with origins dating back to the 15th century, was already being prepared in the early 1800s. Nogada is a European sauce, and chile en nogada, as a Mexican dish, is a result of the intercontinental trade of the time, as most of its ingredients are of Spanish origin. The poblano pepper, a native ingredient to Mexico, plays a vital role in this dish.

The author questions why chile en nogada is considered the quintessential Mexican dish, suggesting that other traditional Mexican dishes, such as mole madre or tlacoyo, could be more fitting. Regardless of the reason, chile en nogada remains a delicious and iconic dish that showcases the fusion of two great culinary traditions. The author promises that once they discover when chile en nogada became the quintessential Mexican dish, they will create a video and write an article about it.