The long, hard road to a better peg

The Food Safety and Standards Authority of India (FSSAI) has taken action against several popular alcohol brands, including Old Monk and Royal Challenge. The issue at hand is extra neutral alcohol (ENA), a colorless and flavorless base spirit used in all IMFL (indigenously manufactured flavored liquor). ENA can be derived from molasses, grains like wheat, rice, and corn.

Tests revealed that Old Monk contained over 95% un-aged neutral ENA, with less than 5% matured rum spirit. Authentic rum or whisky derives its distinctive aroma and taste from the spirit and maturation process. The manufacturer of Old Monk, Mohan Rocky Springwater, has agreed to update its bottle labels from '7 Years Old Blended' to 'Flavoured Rum'.

The Indian market is the largest consumer of 'whisky' by sold volume. Brands like McDowell’s No. 1 have held the title for the world's bestselling whisky for years. However, what many Indians drink is essentially artificially-flavored neutral spirit. Despite India's love for liquor, the government and manufacturers are partly to blame for offering mediocre products. FSSAI is urging consumers to be more informed about what they are consuming.

For most Indians, drinking options are limited to brands that have been around for decades. While a small urban elite can afford expensive cocktail bars featuring award-winning Indian single malt and craft gin, the majority continue to drink old-fashioned brands. The problem lies in the fact that consumers have no better alternatives. Government policies favoring domestic brands over imports contribute to the lack of quality options.

Europe, Britain, and the US have long advocated for reduced tariffs on wine, Scotch, and bourbon. Although some progress has been made in trade talks, tariffs have not been lowered enough to significantly impact prices. This means that inexpensive Australian wine or young blended Scotch remains a more appealing choice than the domestically-manufactured flavoured and coloured neutral spirit.

The Indian government maintains high duties on imports to protect domestic brands. However, many of these domestic IMFL brands are owned by multinational corporations like Pernod Ricard and Diageo. This protectionism raises questions about the government's true intentions. Despite the government's desire for consumers to drink better, it continues to complicate the process through various means, including corruption in the distribution process.

A budget-conscious drinker who wants to improve their liquor experience may be willing to pay a little more for better quality. While FSSAI's recent campaign is a positive step, much more needs to be done to ensure consumers have access to better options at affordable prices. Until then, the writer remains critical of the current state of IMFL in India, emphasizing the need for significant improvements in both quality and affordability.