What small insects can tell us about ancient textiles

Anna Sheinberg, a Ph.D. candidate in chemistry, is collaborating with researchers from Trinity College's Chemistry Department and the Nasher Museum of Art to analyze ancient textiles in the Nasher's collection. Sheinberg and Adjunct Professor Martin Fischer employ pump-probe microscopy, a noninvasive imaging technique, to examine pigments in the textiles.

This method uses two ultrafast laser pulses: one excites the pigments, while the second measures the changes resulting from the first pulse. The technique does not damage the textiles during analysis.

The Nasher Museum has a collection of ancient textiles from present-day Peru, some of which are dyed with cochineal, a red pigment derived from small insects that live on prickly pear cacti native to Mexico and South America. Cochineal dye has been used by Indigenous communities for thousands of years to create vibrant red textiles. By determining if the textiles were indeed dyed with cochineal, researchers can gain insights into who originally created the textiles.

Nasher Museum Adjunct Assistant Professor of Art, Art History & Visual Studies Julia McHugh emphasizes the significance of Sheinberg's research, stating that the museum's collection of ancient Peruvian textiles is of great value to her investigation. With Sheinberg and Fischer's assistance, McHugh hopes the museum can learn more about the textiles, including confirming their cochineal-dye origin, which can help establish the approximate creation period and identify the binding agents used to adhere the dye to the fibers.

Sheinberg highlights the potential of chemistry in studying and preserving cultural heritage, showcasing the benefits of collaboration across Duke's resources.