New York Fashion Week leans into American legacy brand revival

New York Fashion Week is set to begin next week, showcasing a range of American fashion heritage brands that have managed to attract younger Gen Z consumers, despite the broader challenges faced by the global luxury market. The high-profile event will commence on Wednesday, just before its official start, with runway presentations from Ralph Lauren and Coach, both of which have experienced notable growth in the past few months.

Young shoppers in Asia and North America have shown a particular affinity for Ralph Lauren's updated cable-knit sweaters and polo shirts, as well as Coach's Tabby bags. Tommy Hilfiger, another iconic American heritage brand, is set to return to the runway after a hiatus, joining forces with NFL star Travis Kelce for a collaboration.

This addition is seen as a positive for the American heritage brands present at the event. Tori López, the Fashion Market Editor at W Magazine, noted that Tommy Hilfiger's return is a "nice fit back into that family."

However, the demand for premium U.S. apparel has been inconsistent. Michael Kors, another host of a runway show, has faced sluggish sales in recent years. The war in the Middle East has negatively impacted tourism in Europe, adversely affecting the luxury sector as a whole. Despite these challenges, growth in the U.S., driven by native brands and younger consumers' spending, is partially offsetting the slowdown in Europe and the Middle East, according to consultancy Bain & Company.

The official kickoff of New York Fashion Week will be led by designer Henry Zankov, who will debut his first-ever collection for Diane von Furstenberg on Thursday. The event, which runs until September 15, will also be closed out by Thom Browne and feature runway shows from established brands Carolina Herrera, Christian Siriano, Calvin Klein, and emerging designer Conner Ives, a New York native who has dressed celebrities for the Met Gala, making his NYFW debut.