Shein shares slide 10% in long-awaited Hong Kong trading debut

Shein's Hong Kong stock debut saw its shares plummet around 10 percent in early trading on Tuesday, September 1, as the online fashion retailer launched its long-awaited public offering. The company raised US$1.7 billion by offering 103 million shares at HK$48.56 each, valuing Shein at US$26.5 billion. Nevertheless, the stock soon dropped to HK$43.8 per share.

Shein's valuation was far below its 2022 peak of nearly US$100 billion. The IPO was less eagerly anticipated than other major deals from the past year. Demand for Shein's shares during the offering was modest compared to other high-profile deals in recent times. Hong Kong retail investors, who closely monitor IPOs, showed limited enthusiasm for the deal.

Analysts and executives expressed skepticism about Shein's long-term prospects. Dickie Wong, executive director of research at uSMART Securities, noted that the company's revenue growth has been stagnant, and much of the capital raised is returning to earlier investors. Cornerstone investors, who took about 20 percent of the IPO and are locked for six months, left roughly 5 percent freely tradable.

Among the factors hindering Shein's listing are tariffs and duty changes in the US and Europe, as well as heightened scrutiny of its business practices in the West. These challenges have dampened investor confidence in Shein. The company's net income dropped by 39 percent last year, and it reported a loss in the first quarter of 2023.

Shein expects first-half operating profit margins to be slightly lower than in the first quarter due to higher customs duties, tariffs, fees, and logistics costs in Europe and the Middle East.

Despite the challenges, Shein aims to expand beyond its ultra-cheap fast fashion offerings. The company has ventured into a third-party marketplace and acquired American apparel brand Everlane in May. Shein intends to offer marketplace and supply chain services to more brands in the future, following suit with other fashion brands like Pimkie and Missguided. The IPO not only serves as a fundraising event but also as a significant capital-structure adjustment for Shein.