France relaxes strict cheese-making rules after prolonged drought

France has temporarily altered cheese-making regulations following a prolonged summer drought, which drastically reduced the grass available for milk production. Government decrees were issued on Wednesday granting dispensations to manufacturers of Abondance, Beaufort, and Comté cheeses – all originating from eastern France's mountainous regions.

Several other cheeses, such as Cantal, Bleu d’Auvergne, Fourme d’Ambert, Bleu du Vercors-Sassenage, Reblochon, and Rocamadour goat cheese, are also expected to receive similar waivers. This allows farmers to feed livestock with grass and hay transported from outside their strictly regulated geographical zones. The National Institute for Origin and Quality (INAO), which governs France’s labels of origin, has approved temporary modifications to rules for other protected products due to the impact of the summer heat.

This includes certain types of Calvados and cider from Normandy, Crémant d’Alsace sparkling wine, lamb from Poitou-Charentes, and Reine-Claude plums. Certificates of origin enable farmers to sell their products at a premium, but these come with stringent regulations concerning location and production methods. The primary objective is to preserve the unique identity of these cheeses, wines, and other foodstuffs, which are said to be linked to their specific terroir – a French term that refers to the relationship between locality and tradition.

Due to a 2026 drought, now classified as "historic" by the INAO, farmers are permitted to deviate from these rules for a short period.