Once a top export, prized Kashmir carpet fades

Kashmir carpets, once a top export, are now fading as the traditional handwoven industry faces a steady decline. Masterpieces, crafted using mulberry silk or pure sheep wool, have adorned imperial courts, museums, and luxury homes worldwide for centuries. These hand-spun yarns, dyed in natural colors and woven on handlooms, pack between 300 and several thousand knots per square inch based on the design's complexity.

Until the 1980s, Kashmir's carpets were its primary export, but volumes have steadily declined due to various factors. Wars in Ukraine and the Middle East have further hit the trade. Bashir Ahmad, a 78-year-old weaver, expressed his sorrow at seeing the craft diminish. He lamented that if more young people had taken up the craft, they could have made a living from it. Today, a master weaver earns around 500 rupees (US$5) a day, less than many unskilled laborers.

Producing a carpet can take a group of artisans up to a year, depending on the size and design. The art of fine carpet weaving originates from the Himalayan valley of Kashmir in the 15th century, introduced by Persian travelers and later patronized by the last local king, Zain-ul-Abidin Budshah. The handicraft flourished in Srinagar and spread to other towns and villages across Indian-administered Kashmir.

Despite the decline in work volume, some weavers remain committed to the tradition. Mushtaq Ahmad, a 75-year-old weaver, vowed to continue weaving as long as he has the strength and days ahead. Industry estimates suggest the sector now employs around 30,000 people, a sharp drop from the hundreds of thousands three decades ago. Efforts are underway to modernize the sector and attract new workers, including providing free modern carpet looms and introducing geographical indication tags to distinguish genuine Kashmiri carpets from cheap imitations.