A TRUE CLASSIC: Tomato bredie — the story, the history, and a tweak or two

Tomato bredie is a beloved classic of South African cuisine that deserves to be enjoyed more often. This rich and flavorful dish is traditionally made with fatty mutton, tomatoes, and a variety of spices. However, over time, recipes have evolved to adapt to different tastes and preferences.

In the Cape kitchens of the past, every self-respecting cook had their unique tomato bredie recipe, all of which were highly cherished. The core of a tomato bredie is a simmered stew of fatty mutton and tomatoes, left to cook for hours to develop a deep and complex flavor. While some may consider ditching the fat for a leaner version, it is an essential component of the dish, as both the mutton and tomatoes contribute to its distinctive taste.

To delve into the history of this beloved recipe, the author first explored Renata Coetzee's classic book, "The South African Culinary Tradition." However, found her tomato bredie recipe to be somewhat lacking in flavor. In search of a more robust recipe, the author discovered C Louis Leipoldt's version in his book, "Food & Wine." While Coetzee's recipe contains only eight ingredients, Leipoldt's version includes 19, including cheese, which the author believes elevates the dish to a higher level of sophistication.

In the latest update to the recipe, the author adapted it further. Instead of only using mutton rib, they incorporated lamb neck and lamb shanks, both bone-in. For those who avoid chili, they added a teaspoon of pimentón (Spanish smoked paprika) to create a gentler heat. Additionally, canned chopped tomatoes were used instead of whole fresh ones, as the author found the available tomatoes less ripe.

Another small change was the inclusion of passata (strained tomatoes) to enhance the texture of the dish. Finally, the author decided against adding wine, as they found it unnecessary.

Here's the latest version of Tony's Tomato Bredie:

Ingredients:

- 1kg mutton rib, cut into small pieces

- 2 large onions, sliced

- 3 leeks, sliced

- 1 heaped tbsp flour

- 1 tbsp butter (optional)

- 2 x 400g cans of chopped tomatoes

- 200ml passata

- 3cm piece of fresh ginger, peeled and chopped

- 8 cardamom pods

- 1 tsp fennel seeds

- 1 tsp coriander seeds

- A few whole peppercorns

- 3-4 thyme sprigs

- 1 tsp pimentón or other smoked paprika

- Salt, to taste

Method:

1. Put all the mutton and lamb into a heavy pot and add the sliced onions and leeks. Sprinkle the flour over and stir over moderate heat with a wooden spoon, coating the ingredients.

2. Add a heaped tablespoon of butter (if desired), and stir for 10-15 minutes, stirring often, until the mutton's fats render and create a luxurious depth of flavor.

3. Add most of the other ingredients, excluding the tomatoes and salt: ginger, cardamom seeds, coriander seeds, peppercorns, fennel seeds, and thyme sprigs. Stir and braise for 10-15 minutes.

4. Add all the chopped tomatoes, passata, and stir. Cook covered on low heat for approximately two hours.

5. Serve with plain white rice.