A place for Onam at Delhi table and in its heart
In 2014, the author visited Kerala for work during the festival of Onam and experienced a traditional lunch with friends. The meal consisted of various dishes served on a banana leaf, which left a lasting impression. As Onam approaches, Delhi's restaurants, home chefs, and WhatsApp groups prepare to serve the famous sadhya, a meal featuring 20 to 30 different dishes on a banana leaf.
The scale of the celebration has expanded, with Kerala House in New Delhi planning to serve around 3,000 people over three days in 2025. Food guides list at least 20 restaurants offering special Onam sadhyas across Delhi-NCR, with spreads containing up to 30 preparations. The popularity of sadhya reflects a broader relationship between Delhi and southern Indian food, which has grown beyond idli, dosa, and vada.
Now, dishes like appam, puttu, kothu parotta, gongura, pesarattu, bisi bele bath, and Mangalorean ghee roast are familiar and appreciated. Chef Marina Balakrishnan describes sadhya as being "beyond food," highlighting the communal aspect of the celebration. Onam has become a way for Delhiites to explore another region's culture, traditions, and people, much like how they engage with Durga Puja or Ramzan festivities.
Written by urgent.news from The Indian Express's reporting — not their text. Machine-written — may contain errors; check the original before relying on it.
