Tokyo Mugicha: A Traditional Roasted Barley Taste Enjoyed for Over 80 Years

Tokyo Mugicha, a traditional roasted barley tea, has been enjoyed by Japanese people for over 80 years. Known for its refreshing flavor, virtually no calories, and zero caffeine and sugar, it's a popular drink for people of all ages during hot and humid summer months. Traditionally, households would make mugicha by roasting barley and brewing it in a large kettle, but now it can be found in PET bottles at convenience stores.

Kawahara Seifun Mill, located in Nerima, Tokyo, is one of the few remaining establishments that still roasts barley using traditional methods. Established in 1940 during World War II, it is currently run by Kawahara Wataru, the grandson of the founder. "We've been making this the same way for more than eighty years, so it has kept its original flavor," Wataru explains.

The mill uses domestically produced six-rowed barley and roasts it using silica sand, a process that causes the grains to expand much more than hot-air roasting used by major manufacturers. This expansion brings out a deeper flavor in the tea. The roasting process consists of two stages, during which the barley is roasted at 100°C for 30 seconds and then at 300°C for around 90 seconds, requiring quick judgment and skill to adjust based on factors like temperature, humidity, and barley moisture content.

Becoming a roastmaster takes approximately five years, and currently, there are only four people in the mill with the necessary skills. The work is physically demanding, with temperatures reaching 45°C near the oven, and daily production is limited to 800 kilograms. Despite the challenges, Kawahara remains committed to maintaining the authenticity of his tea, stating that he would be morally wrong to raise the price simply to capitalize on a potential increase in demand.