How Chennai city went from tiffin carriers to food apps

Chennai, once a city where home-cooked meals and tiffin carriers were an integral part of everyday life, has undergone a remarkable transformation. Today, the city is characterized by a thriving food scene that includes eateries, restaurants, cafés, food-delivery apps, and subscription kitchens.

Sivasankari, an 82-year-old writer, recalls the desserts and ice creams from her childhood in the 1960s and 1970s. She fondly remembers Gaylord and Jaffers on Anna Salai, known for their international-standard ice creams, particularly Peach Melba at Jaffers. Sabita Radhakrishna, a cookbook author and founder of Udhavi, an NGO for elders, remembers Chennai as a conservative city where eating out was largely an occasional affair.

She fondly remembers Buhari on Anna Salai, Southern Chinese, Woodlands Drive-In, New Woodlands, Shanthi Vihar, and street-food stalls in Periamet.

The city's culinary landscape was greatly influenced by entrepreneurs such as M. Mahadevan, who popularized standalone restaurants in the 1990s and introduced affordable buffet meals. However, Sabita feels there are still gaps in Chennai's culinary offerings, specifically noting the lack of authentic Bengali restaurants.

Food historian Rakesh Raghunathan notes that Chennai's food culture is now more conversation-driven, with greater awareness of food in general due to the rise of social media. In his youth, he recalls that meals were typically consumed in three stages - a big morning meal, a light tiffin around 4 PM, and what was left for dinner. Today, eating out has become increasingly popular, particularly for family celebrations.

The shift towards a more food-centric lifestyle began around the turn of the millennium. Malls with large food courts and a surge of vegetarian eateries emerged, particularly after the decline of the iconic Hotel Saravana Bhavan. Different neighbourhoods in Chennai have developed distinct food identities - Dashamakan in North Chennai is known for its beef street food, biryani, and kebabs; Marina Loop Road offers freshly prepared seafood; and Anna Nagar, particularly between 8 PM and 3 AM, offers a diverse range of food and desserts.

The commercialization of Chennai's food scene accelerated with the launch of Orkut, a social networking platform. Online groups encouraged people to explore eateries beyond their neighborhoods, leading to a significant increase in the city's restaurant scene. While many traditional eateries have been replaced by newer brands, some family-run establishments have managed to thrive, thanks in part to social media exposure.