God is in the details: The Pope has a couturier — and he’s dressed three pontiffs

Santarcangelo di Romagna, a mountain town nestled under the arcades, houses an atelier specializing in sacred clothing. Here, Filippo Sorcinelli, a 51-year-old couturier of the sacred, brings liturgical robes to life. On Saturday, Pope Leo XIV wore a green and white vestment designed by Sorcinelli during mass in the nearby port city of Rimini. Sorcinelli, who has been creating ecclesiastical attire for 25 years, has dressed three popes – Benedict XVI, Francis, and now Leo.

Dressing a pope, according to Sorcinelli, is akin to dressing a priest, requiring respect for the role and dignity of the individual. He emphasizes that respect for the priest and pope is paramount, and their presentation to the world is of utmost importance. Sorcinelli adheres to liturgical norms, treating them not as constraints but as guidelines, rules, and fixed points. He views sacred art as a powerful message of revelation.

Dubbed "a couturier of the sacred" by Vogue magazine, Sorcinelli's business has expanded to include perfumes and body products for the general public. However, the devout Catholic remains driven by his faith, which originated in the small church of his hometown of Mondolfo, in Italy's eastern Marche region. From a young age, Sorcinelli recalls the scent of incense and the antique fabrics in the sacristy. This faith, he believes, is the foundation of his work.

Sorcinelli, with the help of 11 seamstresses, displayed the green silk for Leo's vestment, which he meticulously rolled out onto a long table. The deep, solemn green color of the fabric symbolizes the hope and safeguarding of creation during the liturgical year. Gold and silver inlay work and green agate stones enhance the garment's beauty and significance. Sorcinelli explained that the design and fabric selection for the vestment reflect the setting of the Rimini port, as if mirroring the portholes of the boats.

When Sorcinelli was young, he met the former Robert Prevost, who later became Pope Leo. Although they have not spoken since, Sorcinelli submits design proposals and fabric swatches to the Vatican office organizing masses and papal celebrations. The process of creating a pontifical vestment can take several weeks to four months, depending on the complexity of the garment.

As for the future, Sorcinelli remains open to possibilities. He considers art an inexhaustible source of expression and believes that stopping his creative endeavors would mean reaching the end of his existence.