Embroiderers work to keep traditional kelingkan craft alive

Kota Baru: Skilled kelingkan embroiderers Azlin Raihana Mohammad Aswari and Siti Norliana Mohamud are painstakingly working on scarves, stitching delicate gold and silver metallic threads into intricate designs. Their efforts aim to preserve the traditional Malay embroidery that has been linked to royalty and nobility. Working alongside renowned Kelantan kelingkan maker Nik Marhammah Nik Megat, the two learners are mastering the complex techniques required for this art form.

The pair enjoys honing their skills under the guidance of one of the prominent practitioners, Nik Marhammah, who has dedicated years to perfecting the craft. Kelingkan scarves can sell for between RM400 and thousands of ringgit, depending on the design, materials, and complexity of the embroidery. Nik Marhammah, 52, learned the craft from a young age, inheriting it from her family, and later participated in a workshop organized by Kraftangan Malaysia in 2006, which sparked her passion for the art form.

Today, Nik Marhammah and her 82-year-old grandmother, Nik Rahimah Nik Idris, are among the last remaining kelingkan embroiderers in Kelantan, both committed to passing on their knowledge to the next generation. The traditional craft involves stitching narrow metallic ribbons onto silk, voile, and satin fabrics using a technique called tikam timbus, which requires the metallic ribbon to remain flat as it is repeatedly pierced through the fabric with a fine needle.

Other techniques include tali air, kacang butir, and perforated stitching, creating floral motifs and leaves.

Kelingkan, also known as keringkam in Sarawak, has deep roots in Malay heritage, historically worn by members of royal and noble families. However, the craft faces challenges such as a scarcity of skilled practitioners, high production costs, and limited demand.