Denim has a water problem. Can this new digital dye solve it?

The classic blue hue of denim comes with a high environmental cost: dyeing a single pair of jeans demands 20 gallons of water and involves the use of industrial chemicals. A startup called Wtrlss, however, has developed a novel digital printing method that reproduces the same appearance using only around 2 tablespoons of water and bio-based dyes.

The company, which is already collaborating with major brands, has patented a biochemistry dye that is incorporated directly into rolls of fabric using industrial-scale inkjet printers. Digital printing is not a new technique, but this particular approach fully bonds the dye to the fiber without any extra steps, resulting in fabric that the startup claims looks identical to traditionally dyed denim.

CEO Dustin White explains that this is a significant breakthrough, as it's the first time an indigo blue can be applied to fabric without the use of indigo. The technology was developed by cofounder Mickaël Mheidle, a scientist based in Switzerland. Traditionally, denim production involves a series of steps, from dye baths to bleaching and finishing, which utilize hazardous chemicals and extensive water usage.

Wtrlss's digital method, however, integrates color and finish directly onto undyed fabric in a single step, allowing designers to control the depth of color penetration and the extent of color bleeding.

The process significantly reduces water consumption by 99.99%, making it feasible to implement in regions with stricter environmental regulations, such as New York or California. This advancement makes it easier for designers to adapt to trends and minimize overproduction. Brands can also produce smaller batches and test various styles more cost-effectively, as the new method uses less labor, 90% less energy, and eliminates the need for wastewater treatment.

Early tests have shown that jeans made with Wtrlss material maintain their appearance as effectively as traditionally dyed denim, with no observable differences in quality. The company is currently conducting pilot tests with Ha-Meem Group, a leading denim manufacturer that supplies brands like Levi's and Gap. While the startup has not disclosed other brands yet, it anticipates launching its products this fall.

The technology also has the potential to be applied to other types of dyeing, though Wtrlss is initially focusing on denim due to its high water usage. Despite its sustainability benefits, the startup believes the technology could revolutionize the denim industry, especially as mass production becomes increasingly unsustainable.