36 Hours in Srinagar: A first-timer’s guide to Kashmir’s capital

My first encounter with Jammu and Kashmir was through Hindi films and images of snow-capped mountains, gun battles, and romantic actors. However, experiencing the reality of this paradise on earth was beyond my expectations. The bustling city of Srinagar is a blend of the past and present, with remnants of horror, heritage, and honor.

The 600-year-old Jamia Masjid is an embodiment of serenity amidst the chaos. Its Hellenic architecture, devoid of domes and minarets, features 378 intricately carved deodar pillars supporting the roof. As our tour guide, Yunus Bhatt, explains, the pyramidal roof allows snow to slide off during winter, preventing damage. Floral patterns adorn the central fountain, surrounded by arched colonnades where pigeons flit about. As the sun sets, sunlight reflects off the water of the lake, creating a picturesque scene.

A 15-minute walk from the mosque leads to the Khanqah-e-Moula, one of the oldest Sufi shrines in Kashmir. Built entirely of deodar wood without nails, using the traditional Taq system of interlocking wooden beams, the structure is topped with a pyramidal minaret. Inside, the ceilings are embellished with papier mache, and the prayer hall exudes tranquility.

Downtown, or Shehr-e-Khaas, is the heart of Srinagar. The area is marked by seven wooden bridges, known as Kadals, spanning the Jhelum River. Exploring the narrow, tiled streets reveals the city's vibrant and diverse atmosphere, with each lane boasting unique appearances, scents, and tones. Freshly baked bakarkhani, a Mughlai flatbread, is served alongside kahwa tea at a vendor along the way.

The SR Gunj Market offers a glimpse into the traditional craftsmanship of the region. Intricately designed copper vessels, such as Samovars and Tash-t-Nari, are crafted by skilled metal workers in nearby dark rooms. As the sun rises, the shikaras dock at Nehru Gate, ready to provide scenic rides across Dal Lake. The ride, best enjoyed early in the morning, offers a tranquil experience flanked by floating shops and a floating vegetable and flower market.

The lake also boasts the Indira Gandhi Memorial Tulip Garden, a must-visit during spring, featuring over 18 lakh blooming tulips of 70 varieties and nearly one lakh other bulbous flowers.