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Nigeria: Akwete Weavers Carry An Igbo Textile Tradition Into Modern Fashion

[Bird Story Agency] Once primarily worn as wrappers and ceremonial dress, Akwete cloth is finding new life in contemporary clothing and university training. Weavers, educators and heritage specialists say expanding its market could preserve generations of knowledge while creating new livelihoods.

The centuries-old Akwete weaving tradition in southeastern Nigeria is experiencing a revival in contemporary fashion. Once reserved for ceremonial wear, Akwete cloth is now being incorporated into modern clothing like tops, trousers, skirts, and gowns. This transformation has been driven by weavers, educators, and heritage specialists who aim to preserve the skill and create new livelihoods.

Uchechi Ahunanya, a textile entrepreneur, dedicates three to four weeks each year to weaving Akwete cloth at a wooden loom. The process is labor-intensive, requiring steady hands and a deep understanding of the intricate motifs and vivid colors that communicate cultural meanings. Ahunanya's own family has a long history of Akwete weaving, with her grandmother weaving until she was 103 years old.

However, Akwete weaving faces challenges from cheaper imported textiles and changing economic aspirations. Dr. Ijeoma Onyejekwe, a heritage specialist, notes that imported fabrics have weakened the market for indigenous weaving, making handwoven Akwete a luxury item with a high price tag. The decline in weaving skills is also due to the shift from family-based learning to formal employment and migration, with fewer young people interested in learning the craft.

Despite these challenges, educators see Akwete as more than just a textile – it is a repository of cultural identity and status. The cloth's designs tell stories about the wearer's identity, social function, and heritage. Efforts are being made to carry the tradition into modern fashion while maintaining its cultural significance, such as at the Centre of Indigenous Textile at Alex Ekwueme Federal University Ndufu-Alike in Ebonyi State, which aims to promote indigenous fabrics and transfer weaving knowledge to a new generation.

Written by urgent.news from AllAfrica's reporting — not their text. Machine-written — may contain errors; check the original before relying on it.

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