Multi-analytical study of the ancient Khan-Geum (韓錦) silk brocade excavated from the Taklamakan Desert

A comprehensive study analyzed a 1st–2nd century AD Khan-Geum silk brocade found in the Taklamakan Desert using advanced techniques like AMS, SEM, FT-IR, and XRD. The brocade, classified as a quadruple warp-faced compound tabby with 174 ends/cm and 24 picks/cm, demonstrates a selective degradation where β-sheet-rich fibroin retained its ordered structure while amorphous regions disappeared—indicating advanced manufacturing.

SEM revealed a bimodal fiber distribution, suggesting a blend of raw silk types. The structure's complexity, featuring five-color patterning in a four-layer matrix and triangular borders, points to a sophisticated loom and weaving methods, possibly employing a multi-heddle and multi-treadle horizontal loom. Symbolic motifs and an inscription with the ethnonym "Khan" suggest a blend of technological prowess and cultural significance, positioning the Khan-Geum as a milestone in early high-density warp-faced silk brocades and weaving traditions of the eastern Silk Road.