Italy’s ‘perfectly healthy’ wine grapes go unpicked in the afternoons because it’s just too hot this year

Workers in Italy's Franciacorta region began harvesting wine grapes as early as 4 a.m. under scorching temperatures to avoid overheating, according to a report. The heat has forced the grape-picking window to close earlier than ever before, with some winemakers recording the earliest start on record. Berlucchi, the oldest producer of Franciacorta, began harvesting on August 2, 10 days earlier than last year and about a month earlier than three decades ago.

The winemakers are using floodlights to work under the midday heat, but even then, they are forced to stop between 12:30 p.m. and 4 p.m. due to regional labor rules. Experts attribute the early harvest to several factors, including a mild winter, hailstorms, and lighter fruit that ripens faster. The complex nature of producing Champagne-style sparkling wine requires precise balance of acidity, pH, and sugar levels, making early-ripening varieties such as Chardonnay particularly challenging.

Berlucchi remains the largest producer of Franciacorta, making about 20% of the consortium's total production. Despite the challenges, winemakers believe wine quality is not compromised, but they will need to monitor fields even earlier to maintain the best harvesting moment.