Sages, synagogues, and seaside: Discovering Jewish history along the French Riviera
When identifying ourselves, we did not hide the fact that we are Israeli, and reactions were polite. I consider visiting places of Jewish interest a way of supporting the local community.
The south of France, known as the French Riviera or la Côte d'Azur, is renowned for its lavender fields, charming villages, and glamorous towns. However, this region also boasts a rich Jewish history and presence. The term "Hachmei Provence" (Sages of Provence) is well-known among students of rabbinic literature, referring to rabbis during the Tosphists period (12th-15th century) who connected French and German Torah learning with that of Spain and Catalonia.
The Jews of Provence had a distinct language and prayer rite, though these customs are now largely extinct. Our journey began in Marseille, the second-largest city in France, which offered a vibrant and lively atmosphere distinct from Paris. We stayed near the Vieux Port (Old Port) and Le Panier area, an artsy and touristy district with impressive street art featuring literary quotes and thought-provoking imagery.
The Mucem, a museum of European and Mediterranean civilization, stands out as a modern architectural marvel. It features metal fretwork reminiscent of the Arab influence on the city's past. Marseille's reputation for crime and danger is somewhat exaggerated, with localized issues mainly confined to northern districts known for drug trafficking and gang violence.
One notable writer from Provence is Marcel Pagnol, who penned evocative stories about the region and later adapted them into films. British travel writer Peter Mayle also explored Provence, offering insights into the region's culture and history.
Marseille is home to 80,000 Jews, which is reflected in the city's three synagogues, including a 19th-century monumental synagogue located at Rue Breteuil in the sixth arrondissement. Throughout our visit, we encountered observant Jewish individuals going about their daily lives, visiting kosher restaurants and synagogues without encountering any antisemitic incidents. Our interactions with the French Jewish community were positive and respectful, and they shared their experiences and activities within the community.
Written by urgent.news from Jerusalem Post's reporting — not their text. Machine-written; read the original for the full account.
