A Battle Over Rock Climbing Exposes a Bigger Crisis in America’s Wilderness
This story was originally published by High Country News and is reproduced here as part of the Climate Desk collaboration. A decades-long debate over how to manage wilderness climbing may be nearing a close. Land-management agencies, including the US Forest Service and agencies within the Department of Interior, released draft guidance in mid-June on the use of permanent anchors—basically […]
A prolonged debate surrounding the management of wilderness climbing may be nearing resolution, as land-management agencies release draft guidance on permanent anchors for rock climbing routes. The Protecting America's Rock Climbing (PARC) Act, enacted by Congress in 2025, directed the agencies to establish guidelines for climbers' usage of permanent anchors in wilderness areas.
Erik Murdock, deputy director of programs, policy, and government affairs at the Access Fund, noted that the guidance helps secure climbers' place within the mix, but some wilderness advocates argue that it falls short of regulating uses that violate the Wilderness Act's intent. While rock climbers have long engaged in designated wilderness areas – many of which existed prior to their creation – the Wilderness Act generally prohibits permanent infrastructure.
The issue arises when climbers ascend rock walls, periodically placing protective devices in the rock face to secure their ropes, or at the top of a route to rappel back down. Permanent anchors, such as bolts, pitons, and ropes installed around objects like boulders or trees, are employed where there are no suitable cracks to place gear.
The proposed rules for these permanent fixtures vary by agency, with the National Park Service requiring special-use permits for new bolts and the Bureau of Land Management allowing limited bolt placement without authorization. The Forest Service directs local offices to collaborate with climbers and climbing groups to develop management plans for both wilderness and non-wilderness climbing areas.
However, concerns persist that the new guidance could lead to unregulated climbing in protected wilderness spaces, potentially crowding out other wildlife and users. Dana Johnson, policy director with the environmental nonprofit Wilderness Watch, expressed worries about the lack of capacity to monitor new and existing routes containing permanent anchors, especially in the wake of staff losses at several Forest Service regional offices.
The administration initially proposed a national directive in 2023 to prohibit new fixed anchors in all wilderness areas and to review existing climbing routes. However, Congress reversed this decision with the PARC Act, which allowed recreational climbing activities, including using, placing, and maintaining fixed anchors, in wilderness areas.
Critics argue that the debate over permanent anchors overlooks the broader issue of overcrowding in wilderness areas. Hikers, backpackers, and other users contribute to environmental degradation, such as high levels of E. coli from human waste in popular locations. Zach Lentsch, owner of Wyoming Mountain Guides, contends that agencies should focus on creating permit systems to limit use where needed, implement special bags for waste containment, and address the root causes of overcrowding to ensure the long-term protection of wilderness areas.
Written by urgent.news from Mother Jones's reporting — not their text. Machine-written — may contain errors; check the original before relying on it.
