‘Tony’ Makes Bourdain Unlikeable, and That’s Why It Works

Tony, Matt Johnson's new biopic about Anthony Bourdain, has been met with mixed reactions. The film explores Bourdain's early years before he became the iconic chef and television personality. Drawing from Bourdain's own book Kitchen Confidential, Tony limits its focus to the summer of 1975, when a 19-year-old Bourdain lands a job at a squalid restaurant in Provincetown, Massachusetts, following a failed writing fellowship attempt at Vassar College.

In real life, Bourdain admired the kitchen workers, describing them as "like gods" to him. In the movie, Tony also forms a bond with the kitchen's motley crew, bonding over meals and participating in their activities. Dominic Sessa plays the movie's eponymous character, while Antonio Banderas plays his reluctant mentor, a stoic and devout chef who exudes an imposing presence.

The film highlights the transformative power of this specific kitchen for the young and impressionable chef. Throughout the movie, Tony's unlikeable character is gradually revealed, as he is initially insufferable and displays the characteristics of a naïve and insecure young man. Despite his shortcomings, Bourdain eventually receives his "ass-kicking" and learns valuable lessons about humility and self-awareness.

The film's charm lies in its willingness to portray Bourdain as unlikeable, slowly tempting audiences to empathize with him. The movie captures the raw and unfiltered essence of Bourdain's journey, showing him grappling with failure, insecurity, and the transformative power of the kitchen. It also emphasizes the importance of mentorship, even in unexpected places, and the complex cycle of hurting and repairing relationships that we all experience as we grow up.

While the film contains some embellishments and dramatizations, it successfully captures the universal appeal of finding one's identity and the power of food to shape and empower us. Despite its clunky moments where the film reminds viewers it's indeed a Bourdain movie, Tony ultimately succeeds in presenting a vulnerable and relatable portrayal of the iconic chef, reminding us that even the most celebrated figures are not immune to vulnerability and growth.